A Pocket Dictionary

Compiled from Madelyn van der Hoogt's A Pocket Dicionary of weaving terms for today's weavers copywrite 1990

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Term Main definition

see weft-faced compound twill.


a simple weave with warp floats on one surface of the cloth and weft floats on the other. The order of interlacement of warp and weft is regular and dispersed: no two adjacent warps or wefts interlace. Warp ends and weft picks pass over or under every thread but one in the repeat (4/1 or 1/4 in 5-end satin; 1/7 or 7/1 in 8-end satin, etc.). Shafts are usually threaded in straight order beginning with the first shaft and ending with the last shaft. In true satin the warp that binds each weft is the same number of warp ends away from the warp binding the preceding weft. If it is not, the satin is irregular.

simple weave

a weave with one warp and one weft, i.e., one set of warp ends that perform the same function and one set of weft picks that perform the same function. Plain weave, twills (including turned twills), satins, (including damask), lace weaves, and spot weaves are simple weaves.

single two-tie unit weave

a unit weave that requires one pattern shaft ('single') for each block and two tie-down ends (as in summer and winter).

spot weaves

simple weaves with spots of pattern formed by floats on a background of plain weave. The same warp end or weft that weaves plain weave in the background areas forms the pattern float. Since the pattern area is limited by float length (groups of threads cannot form either pattern or background independently as desired), spot weaves are not unit weaves.

stitched double cloth

two independent structures 'stitched' together: warp ends of one structure interlace with wefts of the other, or a supplementary warp or weft weaves with wefts or warp ends of both structures. Stitching can be done decoratively or invisibly.

straight draw

shafts are threaded in succession (1-8, 1-8, or 8-1, 8-1, etc.).

summer and winter

a supplementary-weft unit weave with two tie-down ends and a plain-weave ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; there are four ends in each unit; each block requires one pattern shaft; the tie-down ends are the first and fourth ends in the unit; the tie-down ends interlace with the pattern weft in plain weave order. One unit of Block A is 1-3-2-3.

summer and winter polychrome (without tabby)

a complementary-weft structure using the summer and winter threading system. Three or more heavy wefts (each of a different color) form one structural pick. One of them appears on the face of the cloth in any given area (over three warp ends, under one) and the others appear on the back (over one, under three). Pattern is formed by the colors of the wefts selected to weave on the face, syn. taquet?. The same structure can be woven as a complementary-warp structure.

supplementary pattern weft

also called extra weft, pattern weft, supplementary weft, a structurally non-essential weft used to add pattern to a ground structure. The supplementary pattern weft usually alternates with a ground weft as in summer and winter or overshot.

supplementary set of elements

a set of warp ends or set of wefts (or both) added to a structure usually for the purpose of patterning. In overshot, a supplementary weft patterns a plain weave ground. Supplementary wefts or warps can also float between two structures to add stuffing, as in pique or Bedford cord, or to stitch two structures together.