Glossaries

A Pocket Dictionary

Compiled from Madelyn van der Hoogt's A Pocket Dicionary of weaving terms for today's weavers copywrite 1990

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Glossaries

Term Main definition
one-tie weave

a weave in which one warp end in a threading group is designated as a tie-down end. If such a weave is also a unit weave, it is a one-tie unit weave. A one-tie weave allows for a pattern weft to be tied on one surface. If the pattern weft passes above the cloth in one area and below it in another, two tie-down threads are usually used, one to tie it from above and one to tie it from below. Summer and winter has sometimes been called a 'one-tie' unit weave when only shaft 1 is lifted for all pattern picks, but shaft 2, though not lifted, ties the float on the bottom.

opph?mta

(from Sweden) a supplementary-weft structure with a plain weave ground cloth. All of the warp ends weave the plain-weave cloth. A supplementary weft floats either over all of the ends or under all of the ends in each block to create pattern. Since the pattern area is limited by float length (blocks cannot form pattern independently) opph?mta is not a unit weave. (Opph?mta is woven in other European and Scandinavian countries under other names.)

overshot

a supplementary-weft structure with a plain-weave ground cloth. The supplementary weft floats a) over an entire block, b) under an entire block, or c) over and under alternate ends in a block to form halftones. Since the pattern area is limited by float length (blocks cannot form pattern independently), overshot is not a unit weave.