Glossaries

('tied Lithuanian,' also called dimai or perverai; 'tied Latvian'): supplementary-weft unit weaves with two tie-down ends and a plain-weave ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down ends to pattern ends is 2:4 (or more); there are six or more ends in a unit; the two tie-down ends are threaded together at the beginning of the unit. In 'tied Lithuanian' the same tie-down end is always lifted and the other always remains down for the pattern pick; in 'tied Latvian,' the tie-down ends alternate to tie the float. A unit of A is threaded 1-2-3-4-3-4.

usually refers to a supplementary warp that weaves pattern on a ground cloth. It is also used to identify warp ends in supplementary-weft structures that determine pattern by remaining above or below a pattern float.

usually refers to a supplementary weft that floats to form pattern. In some sources the secondary weft of lampas is called a pattern weft. Less frequently it refers to a weft that determines where a pattern warp float appears by remaining over or under it.

a) fast-back piqu?: a stitched double cloth with a supplementary (stuffer) weft; or b) loose-back piqu?: a supplementary (stitcher) warp and supplementary (stuffer) weft structure. The back (stitcher) warp ends in both are held at greater tension than the face warp ends and are lifted over face weft picks (usually two) to stitch. The stuffer (also called wadder) weft adds to the puff of the unstitched areas. The ratio of face warp and weft to back warp and weft is usually 2:1.

a simple weave in which each weft passes over one warp end and under one end. The adjacent warp end and weft pick reverse the actions of the first. The minimum number of threads required for plain-weave interlacement is two warp ends and two wefts.

a graphed design for block weaves. The profile threading draft consists of rows representing the blocks required by the design (A, B, C, and D for four blocks). For each unit weave a different threading formula is substituted for one square on a profile threading draft. (1-3-2-3 equals one square on a profile threading draft row for block A in summer and winter.) The profile drawdown is the design that results when pattern is produced in the block(s) indicated by the profile tie-up and profile treadling order.