Glossaries

a term to describe the clean edges of the design in turned twills and turned satins. Every warp and weft must interlace (exchange faces) at the design's edge to produce a clean cut.

two or more sets of warp ends that are coequal in the fabric and are both necessary to complete the interlacement with one set of wefts, or two or more sets of wefts that are coequal in the fabric and are both necessary to complete the interlacement with one set of warp ends.

two or more sets of weft sor two or more sets of warp ends. The additional warp (set) or weft (set) may be supplementary as in overshot and summer and winter or complementary as in swivel, Bedford cord, summer and winter polychrome.

two or more weave structures (separate sets of warp-and-weft) form one cloth. The structures are connected in one of several ways (see double weave).

the number of warp ends away from the previous warp the satin interlacement moves with each successive pick; also called the interruption factor, distribution factor, count number, rising number.

when a weave structure and its reverse appear on the same surface of the cloth to create pattern with one and background with the other.

a supplementary-weft structure with a plain- weave ground cloth. Crackle is usually woven on four shafts and forms four blocks of pattern. The supplementary weft float passes over three threads and under one in the pattern block, under three and over one in one of the background blocks, and over three in one pick and over one in the alternate pick in the other two background (halftone) blocks. Adjacent blocks cannot produce pattern or background at the same time: crackle is not a unit weave.

diagonals within the twill (treadling or threading) repeat move in opposite directions.