Glossaries

a simple weave in which areas of warp-float satin and areas of weft-float satin appear on the same surface across the width and length of the cloth, syn. turned satin. When satin units of five ends are threaded, the damask is often called 5-shaft (or 5-end) damask even though l5 shafts are required for three blocks, 20 for four, etc. When units of six ends are used, the cloth is often called 6-shaft (or 6-end) damask even though satin on six shafts is not true satin.

damask in small all-over block designs.

see counter.

sometimes used to describe damask that is woven with reciprocal complementary wefts of two different colors that produce a weft-float on both sides of the cloth; the two wefts (therefore the two colors) exchange positions in pattern and background areas. Double damask has also been used to identify damask with a weft to warp ratio of 2:1.

a supplementary-weft unit weave with two tie-down ends and a plain weave ground cloth. The threading unit requires two pattern shafts ('double') for each block. Each block can produce pattern, background, or halftones independently. The label is applied to the specific threading (1-3-2-4, 1-5-2-6, etc., also called double summer and winter) but not to other unit-weave threadings with two pattern shafts per block and two tie-down ends (1-3-4-2-3-4; 1-2-3-4-3-4-; 3-1-3-1-3, 2-4-2-4-2, etc.). A 'double two-tie unit weave' threading can produce many structures other than supplementary weft; its most frequent uses are to expand twills and to combine structures.

a compound weave in which two sets of warp ends each weave with a respective set of wefts. The two structures are usually connected to each other in one of several ways: a) the structures exchange positions from face to back or vice versa, b) the structures are 'stitched' together by warp ends or wefts of one structure (or extra warp ends or wefts) interlacing with wefts or warp ends of the other, c) the warp of one structure interlaces with its weft on opposite sides of the other structure?or by a combination of these three ways.

when two complementary sets of warp (or weft) are reciprocal, forming an identical structure on both sides of the cloth.

Swedish term usually used to describe weaves in which warp-float areas contrast with weft-float areas such as turned twills and turned satins, especially when they are simple block designs woven on eight or ten shafts

damask patterning produced on a shaft loom or (more rarely) shaft drawloom. Dr?ll patterning is less elaborate than figured drawloom or jacquard damasks. The edges of the design are stepped in squares that are the size of a unit or half-unit of the satin structure being woven.