Glossaries

Swedish term used for weaves in which patterning is formed with supplementary-weft floats (such as overshot or crackle); the term usually applies to four-shaft weaves. These are also called simplified dr?ll weaves. Halb (half) and simplified indicate that these weaves require fewer shafts per block than dr?ll weaves.

a supplementary-weft unit weave with two tie-down ends and a plain weave ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down to pattern ends is 1:2 or 1:3 or 1:4 (or more); there are six or more ends in a unit; the tie-down ends are threaded at the beginning and in the middle of the unit; the same tie-down end is always lifted and the other always remains down for the supplementary pattern weft pick. One unit of A is threaded: 1-3-4-2-3-4 or 1-3-4-3-2-3-4-3, etc.

a supplementary-weft unit weave with three tie-down ends and a plain weave ground cloth. The ratio of tie-down ends to pattern ends is 1:1; there are six ends in a unit; the tie-down ends alternate with the pattern ends in the threading; the tie down ends interlace with the pattern weft in twill order. One unit of A is1-4-2-4-3-4.

an historical term for a simple, self-patterned float weave (that is not damask). Floats over three threads form the pattern; the background is plain weave. Where warp floats appear on one surface of the cloth, weft floats appear on the reverse. The three-thread floats are 'alternately aligned': they are bound by alternate ends (or picks) in alternate rows, i.e., 'tabby' order. The second and fourth ends (and the second and fourth picks) bind the floats.

a unit weave with at least six ends and picks in a unit. The threading unit is divided into half units each with an odd number of ends (3/3, 5/5, 7/7). Three combinations of interlacements can be woven: a) plain weave in both half units, b) plain weave in one half unit alternating with warp floats or weft floats in the other (often called huck texture or 'huck'), or c) warp floats in one half-unit alternating with weft floats in the other (often called huck lace). Treadling half units for huck texture and huck lace also alternate warp and weft floats.