Skoldharbor Hood

ref, Rebecca Lucasskoldharborhood

Yarn: Wool
Weave: 2/2 twill
Warp: dk brown
Weft: lt grey
  Resulting in overall buff (yellow-brown appearance (Løvlid, 2009; 42)

Final width main body after fulling: 56cm/22.05in
Final length main body after fulling: 76.5cm/30.12in
Width before fulling: 25.94 in
Length before fulling: 35.44 in


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The fabric of the hood is a woolen 2/2 twill, believed to have originally been dark brown in color, with the warp dark grey and the weft a lighter grey, giving an overall buff (yellow-brown) appearance (Løvlid, 2009; 42). The warp was made from the coarser and stronger outer 'guard hairs' of a fleece, while the softer under-hair was used in the weft (Noback, 1951). The cutting pattern appears to have used this fabric very efficiently, as the pieces were comprised of rectangles and squares, all approximately 30-60 cm wide (Gjessing, 1938: 41, Løvlid, 2009: 42). The left-hand side, and back of the hood is fully preserved, while on the right-hand side, the fabric under the chin survived. The gores in the front and back of the hood, while not unusual in their placement, are unusual in that they are not curved along the bottom edge. In fact, they are simple squares (Hügel, 2005: 19), that effectively widen the skirt of the hood, so that it can fit over the shoulders. It measuries approximately 138cm around the hem (Gjessing, 1938: 41).

According to Løvlid, the hood is made from three pieces of wool, not four. The main part of the hood is actually a single piece, that was split up the middle to form the face-hole, except for the final 2.5 cm, and possibly a 1 cm section between the face-hole and front gore (2009: 43).

Top of hood: angled seam deeper in the front forming cockscomb.  Edges of cocscomb turned inward and sewn together with whip sticthes using grey-brown thread from along top of the head (Lavlid, 2009: 44)

2nd seam below edge (3-8 mm) using darker brown thread
3d seam below 2nd (7 mm) using same as warp
4th seam creates comb final height (22-27mm)

Gores attacted with whipstiches using dk brown wool which 'simultaneously tacked the seam allowance to the outside of the hood (Lavlid 2009: 45)

Bottom edge whip stitched with neat stitches running parallel to the grain of the fabric with no fold over hem.